[merog]

ALIGN DISHES WITHOUT A RECEIVER !


OVERVIEW:

This handy box provides the required DC POWER for your budget "Satellite Meter"
AND your LNB's!

* Now you can install and ALIGN your DISHES WITHOUT A FTA RECEIVER!

* Determine if you have a "GOOD" FTA Satellite DISH location ~ BEFORE you run the coax!

* Forget multiple trips up and down ladders setting your FTA Receiver power OFF or ON as you install, connect or test!

* This Power Supply is extremely dependable, EASY to build and a snap to use!

* Total Cost? UNDER $20 !



***CRITICAL! NEVER ATTACH OR DISCONNECT ANYTHING
WITH THE POWER SWITCH ON !***

OPERATION:

Operation is simple. Make SURE your Power Supply is switched OFF!
Use a Coax Jumper to attach your Power Supply to your Satellite Meter "Receiver" connector. Connect a second Jumper from your Satellite Meter "LNB" connector to your LNB.

Point your DISH to the general location you expect to receive signal and switch
your Power Supply ON.

PEAK your Dish for maximum Meter signal then lock your Dish down. Now assure yourself
again that you still have maximum signal!

Switch the Power Supply OFF. Now disconnect your Power Supply and your Satellite Meter.

Connect your DISH LNB to the coax feeding your FTA Receiver and turn your FTA
Receiver ON. Assure yourself you are receiving the FTA Satellite signals you desire. If not, turn your FTA Receiver OFF and start the above again.

*Align your Dishes as quickly as possible to assure maximum signal (and Battery Life). I
aligned mine completely in about 10 minutes using my Supply! This includes testing
all 3 LNB's on my Tripple-Dish! You will require much less time if you are installing a single Dish and LNB.

MORE:

Please note, This is a PROTOTYPE and it is still a work in progress.
I've included two photos so you can get a idea as to layout and approach. The layout is
NOT written in stone so you may use any layout you wish. I used a box slightly larger than
what I need for ease of assembly. My finished Supply will be in a metal box for durability.

If you get a slightly smaller box, nothing stops you from using double back tape or a hot glue gun to secure your Power Supply to the back of your Satellite Meter! Two big rubber bands will do in a pinch, but things will look very ugly.

Because we are so close to the Dish, use a short jumpers of RG-59u between your Power Supply, Meter and Dish. That should work great. The cable loss is minimal and RG-59u is much more flexible than RG-6 and there should be more than enough signal to overcome any coax loss. The 'purest' will want to use RG-6 jumpers and that's fine too.

I will also install 2 battery holders instead of the double-backed tape I used to secure the
batteries. I added a square of foam between the batteries and top cover to help keep the batteries in place in my prototype. IF you don't use your Supply often, the double-back tape or even a hot glue gun approach should serve you well.

If nothing is connected to your Power Supply and the Switch is accidentally switched ON,
there is NO battery drain! Always remove the batteries if you plan to store your Power Supply for any extended length of time.

*Finally, I would highly recommend that you use DUARCELLS or some other type of dependable batteries! You will note that I used regular carbon batteries, but that was all that I had at hand and I was anxious to test.

PARS LIST:

* BOX
* SWITCH (don't use a spring-return switch)
* TWO 9-Volt Battery clips
* TWO 9-Volt DURACELL BATTERIES (or similar)
* Female "F" Connector, chassis mount.
* .1 uf Cap. (Use any value .01uf to .1uf).

CONSTRUCTION:

* Drill holes in box as required.

* Connect the two Battery Clips in series, that is: Red to Black. You should end up with ONE RED wire and ONE BLACK wire from the 2 Clips. You will see that connection to the LEFT of the green Cap.

* Solder the BLACK wire directly to the outer "shell" or body of your "F"
Connector.

* Solder the RED wire from your battery clips to your Switch.

* Solder a small jumper wire from your Switch to the CENTER PIN of your "F" Connector.

* Solder your Cap as close to the "F" Connector as reasonably possible (as shown). Solder one end to the "F" Connector Tip and the other end to the "F" Connector shell or ground.

* I used a red 'twistie' as a wire harness (shown).

YOU ARE DONE!


TESTING:

TEST your Power Supply BEFORE you connect to your Satellite Meter
using a DC Voltmeter. Turn your Supply ON. You should measure about 18
Volts DC at the "F" Connector. The CENTER PIN should be +
or POSITIVE and the outer shell should be - or NEGATIVE.


DON'T FORGET... always connect and disconnect your Power Supply with the SWITCH OFF!



Enjoy this FUN and extremely useful project!

Now RUM for all!

--Credit goes to Pirate555